Effects of a Brazilian herbal compound as a cosmetic eyecare for periorbital hyperchromia ("dark circles").

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2009 Jun; 8(2): 127-35Eberlin S, Del Carmen Velazquez Pereda M, de Campos Dieamant G, Nogueira C, Werka RM, de Souza Queiroz MLBackground Evidence suggests that periorbital hyperchromia (dark circles) occurs mainly as a consequence of postinflammatory hemodynamic congestion producing a typical bruising aspect on the lower eyelids. Aims To evaluate the clinical effects of Pfaffia paniculata/Ptychopetalum olacoides B./Lilium candidum L.-associated compound (PPLAC) on periorbital hyperchromia and to study in vitro its underlying anti-inflammatory and antioxidant mechanisms. Methods Twenty-one volunteers presenting with periorbital hyperchromia received a serum sample containing 5.0% PPLAC, which was applied topically in the periorbital area twice a day for 28 days. Skin color was measured using variations in the individual typological angle (DeltaITA(0)) and skin luminance (DeltaL*) calculated in the area around the eyes and in the adjacent area. Colorimetric readings were taken at the onset and end of the 28-day treatment. Volunteers were also asked to fill out a questionnaire concerning the improvement in "dark circles." The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of PPLAC were measured by quantification of prostaglandin E(2), leukotriene B(4), histamine, and superoxide dismutase levels using an in vitro model of human skin culture. Results Topical application of PPLAC led to a significant improvement in skin luminance and tone in the periorbital area, which was demonstrated by increased values of ITA(0) and L* in about 90% of volunteers. In addition, subjects reported reduced intensity and improved appearance of "dark circles." A dose-dependent decreased production of inflammatory mediators, concomitant to increased antioxidant enzyme levels, was observed in our in vitro studies, under basal and lipopolysaccharide-stimulated conditions. Conclusions Although the precise mechanisms related to PPLAC remain to be clarified, our results indicate that the reduction in the inflammatory process as well as the antioxidant protection against deleterious elements may be considered as an integral approach to preserve the integrity of vascular endothelium, preventing the hemodynamic congestion that culminates in the formation of "dark circles" around the eyes.

Headspace solid-phase microextraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry determination of the characteristic flavourings menthone, isomenthone, neomenthol and menthol in serum samples with and witho

Anal Chim Acta. 2009 Jul 30; 646(1-2): 128-40Schulz K, Bertau M, Schlenz K, Malt S, Dressler J, Lachenmeier DWA rapid HS-SPME-GC-MS (headspace solid-phase microextraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry) method has been developed for determination of menthone, isomenthone, neomenthol and menthol in serum samples with and without enzymatic cleavage. These flavour compounds are characteristic markers for consumption of peppermint liqueurs as well as certain digestif bitters, herbal and bitter liqueurs. This method enabled the detection of the four compounds with a limit of detection (LOD) of 2.1 ng mL(-1) (menthone and isomenthone), 2.8 ng mL(-1) (neomenthol) and 4.6 ng mL(-1) (menthol), and a limit of quantification (LOQ) of 3.1 ng mL(-1) (menthone and isomenthone), 4.2 ng mL(-1) (neomenthol) and 6.8 ng mL(-1) (menthol) in serum samples. The method shows good precision intraday (3.2-3.8%) and interday (5.8-6.9%) and a calibration curve determination coefficient (R(2)) of 0.990-0.996. Experiments were conducted with a volunteer, who consumed peppermint liqueur on three different days under controlled conditions. At defined intervals, blood samples were taken, and the concentration-time profiles for serum menthone, isomenthone, neomenthol and menthol, as free substances as well as glucuronides, were determined. Both menthol and neomenthol underwent a rapid phase II metabolism, but minor amounts of free substances were also detected. Menthone and isomenthone were rapidly metabolised and were found in lower concentrations and over a shorter time span than the other analytes. In blood samples taken from 100 drivers who claimed to have consumed peppermint liqueur prior to the blood sampling, menthone, isomenthone, neomenthol and menthol were detected in the serum as free substances in concentrations between 3.1 and 7.0 ng mL(-1) in eight cases (menthone), 3.1 and 11.3 ng mL(-1) in eight cases (isomenthone), 5.3 and 57.8 ng mL(-1) in nine cases (neomenthol) and 8.0 and 92.1 ng mL(-1) in nine cases (menthol). The sum values of free and conjugated substances ranged between 4.2 and 127.8 ng mL(-1) in 35 cases for neomenthol and 11.0 and 638.2 ng mL(-1) in 59 cases for menthol. Menthone and isomenthone were not conjugated. These test results confirmed that the analysis of characteristic beverage aroma compounds, such as menthone, isomenthone, neomenthol and menthol, can be used for specific verification of post-offence alcohol consumption claims.